I hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving! I’m feeling especially thankful for all the time spent with family and friends. This year’s harvest season in Sonoma County is going to produce some amazing wines! It was smooth and steady, with no major weather events like we’ve experienced in past years. In the last two weeks we’ve had a large amount of rain come through the area, which has officially ended the wildfire season. These are all things that we, as a winemaking community, are truly grateful for.

As the 2024 grape harvest becomes more of a memory, we’re turning our attention to the wines in the cellar. Right now, two key things we’re focusing on are maintaining the fresh wines in our oak barrels and monitoring malolactic fermentations. These steps are essential for shaping the flavors and textures of the wines, and we’re excited to see how they continue to develop. It’s a busy but rewarding time, and we’re looking forward to the future of this new vintage.

Oak Barrels

I started my career as a cooper, which means I used to make barrels. While I don’t make barrels anymore, I’m still grateful that as a winemaker, I get to work with them every day. We have filled all our barrels with the new 2024 vintage wine. The connection between wood and wine started out of necessity. Around the first century B.C., people began using closed wooden barrels to transport goods like water, milk, olive oil, and, of course, wine. Wooden barrels were much lighter and more practical than the heavy clay vessels used before. Over time, people realized that storing wine in wooden barrels, especially oak barrels, added wonderful flavors and aromas that couldn’t be achieved by using anything else.

Here’s a picture of our Assistant Winemaker Will Thiersch and General Winery Worker Vincent Yeh topping a Pinot Noir barrel.

Today, oak barrels are still an essential part of winemaking. One of the key benefits of aging wine in oak barrels is a process called “micro-oxygenation.” As the wine sits in the barrel, it slowly absorbs small amounts of oxygen, which helps soften the wine’s astringency which is the dry, puckering sensation you sometimes feel. The process also improves the color stability of red wines. This aging process also allows the fruity flavors to evolve into deeper more complex flavors that co-mingle with the subtle notes that come from the barrels themselves.

Malolactic Fermentation

Malolactic fermentation is an interesting part of winemaking that gives wine its smoother, creamier texture. It happens when tart malic acid (the kind found in apples) is changed into softer lactic acid (the same acid found in milk). This process makes the wine taste rounder and less sharp. Even though it’s called “secondary fermentation,” it’s not fermentation at all, because it doesn’t involve yeast. Instead, a special bacteria called Oenococcus oeni does the work by eating up the malic acid and turning it into lactic acid. This change in acid gives the wine a richer mouthfeel, making it feel creamy and velvety. Nearly all red wines go through malolactic fermentation, and some white wines like Chardonnay do too. You can tell if a wine has gone through this process by its smooth, creamy texture in the middle of the pallet.

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay samples waiting to be analyzed for Malic Acid levels.

Malolactic fermentation is important not just for texture, but also for the stability of the wine. By reducing the malic acid, the wine becomes less likely to develop bad flavors or spoilage. However, it’s a process that must be carefully controlled. We actively monitor malic acid levels in the wine to make sure Malolactic fermentation is happening at the right time and doesn’t go too far. Some winemakers stop the process early, especially for white wines, to keep them fresh and crisp. By sampling and analyzing the malic acid levels in each wine, we know exactly where each batch is in the process, which helps us achieve the desired flavor and texture. The type of bacteria used can also influence how creamy or buttery the wine becomes. Malolactic fermentation is an important tool that we use to create wines that can be smooth and rich, or fresh and bright, depending on our goals.

On behalf of the entire team here at River Road Family Vineyards and Winery, we wish you all continued good health!

Be Well,